Copyright © Claire Walter 2007
This feature appeared in the February 8, 2007, edition of the Denver Post under the title, “Get On A Roll With This Painting Primer.”
Editors: For reprint rights, contact cmwalter@claire-walter.com or call 303-442-7709.
By Claire Walter
Nothing spruces a room up as quickly or as economically as a fresh coat of paint. But selecting the wrong paint for the job or not preparing the walls, ceiling or woodwork properly can turn a relatively straightforward project into a fiasco.
Ironically, color is the first (and sometimes only) thing we often think about when getting ready to paint, but in truth, it should be the last. More important is determining the ability of paint to hide imperfections or cover whatever is being painted over, washability and ease of application.
New or raw wood must be sealed. Previously painted surfaces must be cleaned. Dings or cracks must be spackled, then smoothed with sandpaper or a liquid-sanding product; fine particles must be lifted off with a tack cloth. Also, temove or mask off door and window hardware and anything else that you don’t want to paint, such as glass or an already-painted wall when you are tackling the trip
Interior paints are categorized by type of formulation and level of gloss or sheen. Here are some terms you’ll see on paint cans – and other words in the world of paint:
Primers and Sealers: To provides something for the finish paint to adhere to, you need a primer. For a good, long-lasting paint job and to prevent peeling, apply a primer to unfinished wood, new plaster or any other porous surface, or when the old and new paints are incompatible, most often latex over oil/alkyd. A primer
Latex: Water-based paints are popular with do-it-yourselfers, because they are easy to apply, clean up quickly with soap and water, are not combustible and are virtually odor-free. Because they dry in just a few hours (often one to two hours in our dry climate), a second coat can be applied soon after the first, and rooms can also be reassembled soon after the project is completed.
Originally so named because of the rubber in the base, latex paints now are formulated with synthetics. Like the old rubber-based version, modern latex paint is somewhat elastic – clear to anyone who has scraped some off, say, a window pane. Vinyl-acrylic latex is less expensive but is not as durable as costlier 100 percent acrylic latex. Expect to pay $10-$35 a gallon.
Oil or alkyd: Traditional oil paint is petroleum-based, while alkyd paint is based on synthetic resins. Both they are somewhat more difficult to apply than latex, requiring require a little more skill and patience. With oil-based paints, the brush tends to drag on the surface. When wet, these paints have a stronger odor than latex.
A second coat is rarely necessary, which is a good thing, because these paints take at least eight hours to dry – and as long as 24 hours in moist weather. You need a solvent such as turpentine or paint thinner for cleanup. Though they can be used for interior surfaces, their durability and adhesion make them most popular for exterior projects – usually those undertaken by professional painters. The cost is $15-$35 a gallon.
Flat or Matte: No-luster paints are usually used for walls and ceilings, especially in low-wear areas. Matte paints effectively mask surface imperfections. Some brands market drip-resistant paints as ceiling paint or ceiling white.
Eggshell: Displaying a soft, slightly lustrous sheen, eggshell finishes are harder and more durable than totally flat finishes. As the name suggests, they are similar to the outside of an egg. They are often used for hallways, stairways and children’s rooms.
Satin: Showing a bit more luster than eggshell, these paints are also popular for hallways, stairways and children’s rooms. Some people liken the look to velvet.
Semi-Gloss: Durable, easy to clean and quite shiny, semi-gloss wears well and is suitable for heavy-use surfaces or ones that are frequently cleaned, including kitchen and bathroom walls, doors, wood trim and cabinets.
Gloss or High-Gloss: Shiny, edgy and extremely hard and durable, these paints
are easy to clean, making them suitable kitchens, bathrooms, cabinets and
furniture. However, surface imperfections are emphasized. The shiniest finish
can only be achieved with oil/alkyd paint or such products as Sherwin-Williams' Pro Classic Waterborne
Enamel.
Enamel: Originally used to describe hard or glossy oil paint, often through the addition of varnish, to imply the strength of an enameled surface, the word “enamel” appears on some manufacturers’ line of paints instead of “finish.”
Glaze: Glaze is the second coat for decorative finishes. Glazing liquid, often tinted, is the paint additive that thins or dilutes it to slow the drying process, either to create a transparent or translucent overlayer or leave time for special effects treatments, such as sponging, rag rolling, stippling or combing
Faux Finish: Faux (French for “false”) finishes mimic other materials, including grained wood, marble or other stone, or a crackled or stippled surface look. They usually require a base coat, a glaze and often use of special rollers, rags or sponges to create the desired decorative effect. Paint stores offer workshops for do-it-yourselfers.
Volatile
Organic Compounds (VOCs): Mineral spirits and other solvents in paints emit
breathable gas or fumes. This is of concern to anyone with such health or
comfort issues as potential eye or throat irritation, asthma attack triggers,
headache, dizziness, nausea or other temporary conditions. Check paint cans
with a Green Seal for no-VOC or low-VOC ratings. Also, be sure to ventilate the
room being painted.
Environmentally
friendly paints include Bioshield Natural Clay Paint (www.bioshieldpaint.com) and Old
Fashioned Milk Paint Company’s products (www.milkpaintcompany.com). They are
more expensive than mainstream products, may not wear as well and come in a
limited selection of colors. Magic Wall Magnetic Paint (www.kling.com/magneticpaintindex.html)
is an acrylic-based latex that is VOC-compliant and accepts magnets,
essentially turning any wall into a refrigerator door.
For latex, use synthetic bristle brushes such as polyester or nylon. The pros say that polyester bristles remain stiffer and retain their integrity for detail work, while that nylon bristles tend to lose their stiffness on hot days. Alkyd/oil paints must be applied with natural bristle brushes, but the water in latex paints makes them limp. Foam-rubber paint applicators are also available. Brushes come in various widths for different jobs and are either straight-cut or tapered. And of course, rollers are useful for large wall surfaces.
http://interiordec.about.com/od/paintbuyerguide/Guides_to_Buying_Paint.htm has links to numerous websites.
www.hometips.com/cs-protected/guides/paint.html is a primer on paints and paint types.
www.paintquality.com/diy/content/design_6.htm and http://library.livinghome.com/Remodeling/Painting-With-Glaze.htm explain various types of faux finishes and techniques.
www.consumersearch.com/www/house_and_home/interior-paint/review.html includes information on low-VOC paints.
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